Cupcakes Galore

Apologies for being a bit quiet recently! I’ve had so much to do.

Here are some pictures of last night’s cupcakes from The Crimson Whip Burlesque Show to keep you entertained while I do some writing and update this more often!

cool britannia

my new recipe - mellow lemon

 

mr and mrs

 

how to eat a mr cupcake

 

Tray Baked Chicken with Crushed New Potatoes and Creamed Spinach

Jamie Oliver seems to have been a bit quiet recently, which surely means there’s a new book due out any day now. I, for one, can’t wait. I love Jamie Oliver’s cooking, I love his recipes and I love his passion for feeding people. This recipe hails from his 30 minute meals collection and is one of those suppers that I have come to rely on for feeding a crowd. Not only is it super quick to cook but it looks impressive and tastes delicious.

The night I first made this, my friend Fiona had joined me for a midweek supper so I started some of it before she arrived and finished it off once we were sat at the kitchen table chatting. It definitely took less than 30 minutes and that included making a non-alcoholic cocktail. I think this would be a delicious supper for supper nights, although this was a wet, windy night in Liverpool, and has a wonderful collection of fresh and zesty ingredients. Also, it’s a good one for a late dash through the supermarket on the way home as it doesn’t require a trolleyful of ingredients.

I think the combination of the paprika and the dried oregano gives it a really smoky flavour. It almost tastes cajun or like a barbeque recipe. I used sweet paprika mostly, and one day used plain paprika, I recommend the sweet personally. It gives it more of a depth of flavour and a stronger contrast with the other ingredients.

The crushed potatoes and the creamed spinach make lovely side dishes and to eke it out further, and because I can’t resist those long sweet red peppers when I see them in the supermarket, I made some roasted red peppers drizzled with olive oil and basil and feta.

I’ve since made this for my housemate, who’s enjoyed it both hot and cold, a scouse builder and my mother and all have enjoyed it enormously. I does seem a great crowd pleaser.

Tray Baked Chicken with Crushed New Potatoes and Creamed Spinach

Enough for about 4

(Jamie breaks his up into complicated sections and this is my version of his recipe so I’m going to try to avoid the confusing sections!)

  • a bag of new potatoes (my new favourites are the Apache new potatoes at Sainsburys, they are a mottled purple and the creamiest potato ever, they really suit the crushing in this recipe)
  • thyme and rosemary sprigs
  • garlic cloves – two crushed
  • 2 fresh bay leaves
  • butter, olive oil and salt and pepper
  • 4 large chicken breasts
  • dried oregano
  • sweet paprika
  • rosemary sprigs
  • 4 sprigs of baby tomatoes on the vine
  • 2 lemons, cut into halves
  • 4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon
  • bag of spinach
  • pot of single cream
  • more garlic cloves – two crushed
  • thyme sprigs
  • a handful of grated parmesan
  • ground nutmeg or a nutmeg to be grated

 

  1. Now, at this point, Jamie gets very excited and breaks everything up into the different items and he keeps popping back to each one, I found this pretty difficult to follow and got hugely confused at what happened when so I’m going to break it up as I’ve cooked it since the original attempt.
  2. Place a pan of hot water on full to boil, add the new potatoes and a nice pinch of salt. Cover and leave to cook.
  3. On another hob, place a large frying pan, add olive oil, on high. Spread a piece of greaseproof paper on the kitchen side and sprinkle over 2 tablespoons of sweet paprika, 2 tablespoons of the dried oregano and splash with olive oil and plenty of salt and pepper. This should make a lovely orange colourful streak.
  4. Swish the chicken breasts up in the greaseproof paper so they’re well coated and add to the hot pan. Cook on either side until brown and remove the pan from the heat.
  5. Put the oven on at about 180-190. In a large lasagne dish, place the chicken breasts, add the small bunches of tomatoes and the lemon halves.
  6. In the frying pan, toast the rosemary sprigs for a couple of minutes, swishing them around in the remaining juices and tip all of this over the chicken. Layer the bacon across the tops of the chicken breasts and give a good grinding of salt and pepper.
  7. Place in the oven.
  8. By this time, your new potatoes should be cooked. Remove from the boiling water and drain. Jamie recommends cooking this in another frying pan, by which time you’ll probably have exhausted all the pans in the cupboard so I put mine back in the pan I boiled the potatoes in. Crush the potatoes with the back of a fork or a potato masher and place the pan on a high heat. Sprinkle the pan with olive oil and add the crushed garlic cloves and the herbs. Soften in the oil and add the crushed potatoes. Squish the potatoes down with the back of a spoon and leave to brown.
  9. While these are browning and the chicken is in the oven, place a large pan on a high heat with an inch of water in the bottom. When this is boiling, add the spinach and steam for a couple of minutes. When the water has evaporated and the spinach is wilted, add the butter, garlic and nutmeg, stir these around for several minutes until soft and then add a splash of cream, the amount is up to you but I didn’t want it too wet so I used about 2 tablespoons.
  10. Remove the chicken from the oven and serve in its dish.
  11. Tip the browned potatoes into a serving bowl and the spinach into another serving bowl.
  12. Dig in with bread and butter and any other salads you can think of.

 

Goat’s Cheese and Roasted Vegetable Lasagne

Sometimes you get a feeling that something you’ve cooked might be an utter disaster. I call it supper hell. This exact thing happened in our house last night. Feeling absolutely full of manflu, caught from my housemate who thinks he may have caught it from a sunbed – classy!, and really tired, I did one of those ‘I have a recipe in mind but I’m not sure what it entailed so I’ll stand around in the kitchen and bang some pans until I have something edible’ specialities.

However, and this is a big however, it wasn’t so bad! The sauces oozed a bit but given that it was a scraps from the fridge and cupboard kind of supper, it was actually alright. David said it tasted nice which I think says a lot for the presentation but let’s face it, presentation isn’t everything which is exactly why there isn’t a photo. However, I can tell you it looked a lot like lasagne, there were also white goat’s cheese bits, green lasagne verde and courgette bits, purple aubergine bits, red tomato bits and some brownish mozzerella and parmesan bits. It could be vegetarian but as I add pancetta to everything, it wasn’t. You could leave this out and perhaps more parmesan for saltiness or even more salt. I think it would be nice with some roasted pine nuts in and even some roasted red onion in the vegetable mix but it’s a nice supper. It actually didn’t take that long using ‘ready to cook’ lasagne sheets from the back of a deep dark cupboard.

Failing to have taken a picture, I give you this picture of some vegetables so you know the theme:

 

a bounty of vegetables

 

  • goat’s cheese, a small fresh one
  • an aubergine
  • 2 courgettes
  • 300g baby tomatoes – I used plum
  • tomato puree
  • pinch of sugar
  • garlic clove crushed
  • handful of pancetta
  • lasagne verde sheets (i think most are the ready to cook variety but you could use the fresh ones)
  • a ball of mozzarella
  • handful of grated parmesan
  • handful of basil
  • salt and pepper
  • creme fraiche
  1. In a large frying pan, saute the pancetta and garlic and place to one side.
  2. In the same pan, add a good splash of olive oil and the chopped aubergine. This will absorb a lot of oil but it’s worth it, if you’re worried about the amount, you could use a spray so that you can use less.
  3. When the aubergine is beginning to soften, add the courgette and cook until browned on the edges.
  4. Throw in the baby tomatoes, some whole and some halved.
  5. Stir over the heat until the tomatoes begin to break down, add the puree and the sugar and cook for a couple of minutes, adding the pancetta and garlic back into the pan.
  6. Meanwhile in a bowl, spoon out the creme fraiche (about a tub) and stir in half of the chopped mozzarella, half of the parmesan and the broken up goat’s cheese. Add plenty of salt and pepper.
  7. In a lasagne dish, spoon a layer of the tomato sauce, then add a layer of lasagne sheets, spoon a layer of the cheesy creme fraiche mixture and another of the lasagne sheets. Continue this pattern until you have reached the final layer of cheesy creme fraiche mixture and spread the remaining mozzarella across the top. Sprinkle over the parmesan.
  8. Cook in a preheated oven of about 180 for 30-35 minutes or until the pasta is soft if poked with a knife.
  9. Leave to stand for 5 minutes before serving as the sauce and cheese will relax and make it easier to cut and spoon.
  10. Serve with crusty bread and salad.

 

 

Mother’s Day Macarons

I am a bad child who, as an unfortunate result of temping, has not a penny to my name. I’m not complaining because payday is on its way but it does mean that my mother and I have had to postpone Mother’s Day to April which suits us because we like Spring flowers, easter eggs and roast lamb. So on this Mother’s Day, my mum is on her way to Herefordshire to visit her mother and I’m catching up on some reading. It’s a bit sad because I miss my mum but she’s always there, so I’m ok.

If, however, you’re lucky enough to see your mum today and spoil her rotten, then something homemade is too delightful for words. There are some beautiful bouquets of flowers out there and our Tesco around the corner has more boxes of chocolates than Belgium but for real, genuine squeals of delight, a homemade Mother’s day present is great.

I’ve made macarons before but always been a little disappointed by them. They were ok but they didn’t quite work and that was maddening. Then I found this recipe from the Great British Bake Off cookbook, they were made by Jason during the biscuits and tea time treats round and I remember thinking they looked wonderful at the time. Jason was one of my favourites, I hoped he might win. He seemed to be really quite innovative and technically able. But then I liked them all really! The recipe is really simple and straightforward, which is what appealed when I flicked through the book. It was also the first time I’ve made macarons and they’ve done the little puffy bottom thing!! Which is a real success in the macaron world. I think they look like something you could buy in Paris wrapped in tissue paper and beautiful ribbons, which is exactly what I would do if I were going to give them as a present. Sadly, they didn’t last that long!

Obviously, you can choose your own food colouring and filling so below is a guide. Jason makes them as mocktails which sounds delicious and might be nice for a baby shower recipe or perhaps ideas for hen nights.

Marvellous Macarons

Mother’s Day Macarons

the recipe makes 2o pairs

this is to make the pink ones, but you could replace the raspberries with lemon curd to make the yellow ones

for the macaron:

  • 3 medium egg whites at room temp (i never keep eggs in the fridge anyway as old wives’ say that the smells in the fridge can permeate the shell and affect the eggs)
  • 225g icing sugar, sifted
  • 90g ground almonds

for the filling:

  • 100g crushed raspberries, defrosted frozen raspberries would work well
  • 75g caster sugar
  • 125ml double cream, whipped
  1. Line 2 baking sheets with baking paper amd preheat the oven to 150C.
  2. With an electric whisk or freestanding mixer, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. Ensure the bowl is spotlessly clean before you start, any grease or shell will stop the eggs from whisking properly.
  3. Gradually whisk in half the sugar and continue to whisk for 2 minutes or until the mixture is thick and glossy. Combine the remaining sugar with the ground almonds and carefully fold into the egg whites using a large metal spoon. It’s at this point, you can add the food colouring and any flavoured essence.
  4. At this point, you can either spoon the mixture into a piping bag or spoon onto the tray with a teaspoon. Ideally a piping bag will make them look prettier but sometimes, you don’t have one to hand or it can be a bit wayward, so I use spoons. Pipe or spoon into 4cm diameter circles on the baking paper and flatten any peaks with the back of a knife.
  5. Leave to stand for 2o minutes to allow a skin to form on the surface and after 2o minutes, bang the tray hard on the work surface. This isn’t in Jason’s recipe but I’ve noticed in many recipes, supposedly to bang out any air bubbles and so I do it, probably more for luck than anything else!
  6. Bake the macarons for 14 to 18 minutes until they have risen and are firm to the touch. Again, I have always stuck a wooden spoon in the oven door to keep the oven slightly open but this isn’t mentioned in the recipe so obviously isn’t entirely necessary. With egg whites, I believe a bit of voodoo is always necessary!
  7. Transfer the baking paper to a wire rack and allow to cool.
  8. For the filling, blitz the raspberries in the food processor and combine with the sugar in a small pan. Cook over a medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
  9. Gently fold the raspberries into the whipped cream and use generously to sandwich the pairs together. Once assembled, try to eat the same day. Like meringues, if not kept air tight, they can become soggy very quickly.

Love you Mum x x x

Spaghetti Carbonara – Food for the Soul

Spaghetti Carbonara is a funny old thing. People get into such a twist about whether you should add cream or mushrooms or even peas but I suppose you should make it the way that you enjoy it. Saying that, I do prefer the traditional recipe and I actually got this version of the recipe from Laurence Dallaglio, the English ruby player, who is Italian or definitely a bit Italian.

My father will be fuming that it’s not the recipe of a member of the Welsh rugby team, who are playing extremely well at the moment and I have extremely high hopes for the Grand Slam, but if the Welsh ruby team have a recipe for me, I’d be delighted to type it. Perhaps Welsh Rarebit or Cawl. Also if any fancy proposing, I’d be welcome to any offers…

I digress.

The name is derived from carbonaro (the Italian word for charcoal burner), some believe the dish was first made as a hearty meal for Italian charcoal workers. This gave rise to the term “coal miner’s spaghetti”, which is used to refer to spaghetti alla carbonara in parts of the United States. It has even been suggested that it was created by, or as a tribute to, the Carbonari (“charcoalmen”), a secret society prominent in the unification of Italy.

It was one of those suppers I tend to make on nights my housemate is going out and I want to curl up on the sofa with a bowl of something and a fork. It’s such a useful recipe as I always have eggs, pasta, parmesan, garlic, olive oil, some kind of bacon or pancetta and salt and pepper to hand and it’s so quick to make.

The original recipe uses guanciale which is very similar to pancetta but made from cured pig’s cheek, if you can find that and I imagine Waitrose may well stock it, that would be delicious but I use either smoked bacon or pancetta most often.

The real secret to carbonara is not to overcook the egg, the residual heat of the pasta should be sufficient to cook it and as soon as it gets too warm, it makes that eggy-omelettey texture. It should be creamy and silky instead. To stop the egg from overcooking, I like to whisk the egg in a bowl and add the hot pasta to the egg, stirring wildly for about a minute, rather than the egg to the hot pasta pan.

fusili as I was out of spaghetti

Spaghetti Carbonara

enough for a very hungry one

  • 100g spaghetti (I use dried spaghetti rather than the fresh pasta as it retains the heat better)
  • a crushed garlic clove
  • 3 eggs, removing the third white so you end with 2 egg whites and 3 egg yolks
  • salt and pepper
  • a handful of smoked bacon or pancetta
  • olive oil
  • parmesan
  1. Put a pan on to boil and add the spaghetti, cook for the length of the packet instructions, usually about 10 minutes.
  2. While this is cooking, saute the bacon in a frying pan until brown and crispy and remove from the heat.
  3. In a large bowl, add the eggs and whisk with salt and pepper.
  4. Crush a clove of garlic and stir through the warm bacon pan, allowing it to soften in the still warm oil.
  5. Grate a heap of parmesan and add a handful to the egg mix.
  6. When the pasta is cooked, drain and immediately add to the egg mix, stir wildly for about a minute, tip in the pancetta, the garlic, the rest of the parmesan and a splash of olive oil.
  7. Eat immediately with a napkin for the splashes around your face.

Jackie The Fiend – A Marvellous Mocktail

My best friend in the whole world is called Jackie and she is a bit fiendish. She can be rather scary if you don’t understand the intricacies of her personality and she can bloody terrifying even when you do. Saying that, she is the most loyal, most kind, most supportive and most brave person I know and she’s also a bloody hoot!

Why am I telling you all of this?

Well, Jackie doesn’t drink alcohol. She has drunk alcohol in the past, there are some fond memories of embracing various public bins in Oxford when we were teenagers but she soon realised that drinking wasn’t for her and since then it’s been tea and squash all the way which must mean she has the healthiest liver in the entire of Oxfordshire but also none of those horrendous embarrassing memories that crop up after a night out. She’s a lucky girl. Despite my many postings on fruit flavoured boozes, I also drink far less these days. Partly because I stopped drinking completely for a while and it’s rather dropped off my radar but also a year without alcohol left me as rather a lightweight and I’m prone to wobbling over after a small sherry. (Oh I do love a small sherry!)

With this in mind, and with a friend coming over for a midweek supper, I took to my development kitchen, that’s the small corner by the sink, where the herbs and the cheese grater lives, and I decided to flippantly create an exciting drink to go with our supper. I originally toyed with adding food colouring to water, whacking in a cocktail umbrella and calling it something fancy like ‘Moonlight Flit Over Fazakerley’ but then I saw that I had a brimming bag of blood oranges – which I would like to tell you are my new favourite fruit, like ever – and I thought ‘hang on a cotton picking second’ and so the mocktail was born.

Blood oranges are also in season which is good because we like things that are in season..

blood oranges

And I have named it ‘Jackie The Fiend’ after my dearest friend who no longer, and the world cries with relief, drinks and who deserves a mocktail named after her because she’s fabulous. Fiend because the colour of the blood oranges is slightly reminiscent of a vampire film. It’s not complex but I like it.

You could, of course, add vodka or gin to it but then it wouldn’t be a mocktail and that would defeat the point. It’s a bit like a tequila sunrise but 100 times nicer because tequila is the liquid equivalent of Satan and also because it tastes a million times fresher.

Jackie The Fiend

makes about 2 litres but you can keep topping up the lemonade for several more jugs without much dilution

  • 4 blood oranges
  • a lemon + a couple of slices for garnishing
  • handful of mint leaves
  • crushed ice
  • a bottle of lemonade  (normally I buy sugar free but I think the full fat version suits this)
  1. Tip a huge amount of the crushed ice into a large jug. Don’t worry about it melting, you want the chilliness and the more ice cubes in a drink, the less likely it is that the ice will melt because it’s kept at a colder temperature. (a little known tip from my days of bartending when people would bemoan too much ice for diluting their drinks..)
  2. Using a lemon squeezer, squeeze the blood oranges, they don’t contain many pips so try and save some of the flesh. Pour this and the flesh into the jug. Squeeze the juice from the lemon and add to the jug.
  3. Poke in the mint leaves and the lemon slices and top up with the lemonade.
  4. Serve on more ice.

It was also a great excuse to use my gorgeous bottle from Prince Charles’ Highgrove shop that my gorgeous mother bought me for my birthday last year.

fiendish

The Giant Cupcake and The Day I Lost My Mind

I like to think that I’m capable of making cupcakes in my sleep, certainly after the burlesque show last year, I found myself wandering into the kitchen and reaching for Daisy the KitchenmAid without knowing what I was doing. I’ve spoken about the trials and tribulations and resulting controversy caused by cupcakes before but I, for one, am a big fan.

Another result of the burlesque show last year is that I gathered a tribe of extremely loyal burlesque-dancing fans. I adore my extremely loyal burlesque dancing fans and last week, I was asked to bake a cake for a photoshoot for Daria D’Beauvoix in which she wanted to poison someone in a 1940′s housewife style. This something I thought I could identify with and reminded me a little of Julianne Moore in The Hours and I idolise Julianne Moore and on very rare and deluded occasions, think I look like her in a pinny.

The requirements were an enormous cupcake with red and silver and so I set to work, without realising that I would probably end up investing more time in it than I have anything else this year! Hannah very kindly gave me her spare giant cupcake mould, available from Lakeland amongst other places, the one I used is from Tesco and is silicon which worked quite well as I could peel it from the finished cake but I’m getting ahead of myself because the finished cake was a long way away. The silicon Tesco one was £10 when I was in there yesterday which seems quite bargainous!

I started with my usual cupcake recipe but realised that it just wasn’t suited to the length of time needed to ensure it was cooked the entire way through so I moved over to this recipe which is specifically designed for making giant cupcakes. It’s a labour of love and not something to make if you’ve only got a quick half hour. The Tesco mould comes with a nifty little contraption so that you can put a layer of buttercream in the middle but this didn’t work at all for me, it sort of exploded in the oven with cake appearing through the little holes in the contraption which probably means I over filled the mould but I think you’d be forgiven for leaving it off and just slicing the top of your cake and buttercreaming the two layers together. I used my usual buttercream icing recipe which failed to work on the first three attempts but it was during the freezing weather last week and I just couldn’t get the butter to soften properly. In the end, I whacked it in the oven for a minute which did the job.

Another reason I would recommend the Tesco mould is the red silicon base actually make a rather attractive cupcake case and I recommended that this be left on for this reason. The metal cases just don’t have the same effect and as far as I can make out, there aren’t cupcake cases available in a big enough size yet. I ended up wielding the icing with a palette knife as a piping bag proved just too unwieldy with such a large surface area (it was at this point that I broke down in cupcake induced weeping and self doubt) which is a shame because I wanted to use the blended white and red icing which creates an amazing effect. I added red polka dots of icing to the white buttercream and silver edible glitter at intervals between the polka dots, although this doesn’t show extremely well in the photos. My housemate wandered past and declared it beautiful so I stopped tweaking it and packaged it up in a bespoke dog collar to keep it from getting damaged, jumped in a taxi and delivered it to their house.

Below is a picture taken by TwistedPix photgraphy from the shoot, it’s a bit small but beautifully taken:

taken by TwistedPix photography

 The Giant Cupcake

  • 450g softened butter
  • 450g caster sugar
  • 8 large eggs
  • 450g self-raising flour
  • 4 level tsp baking powder
  • 2 tsp of vanilla
  • 3 tbsp milk
  • Giant cupcake tin

for the icing:

  • 80g softened butter
  • 500g icing sugar
  • 100ml milk
  • splash of vanilla essence
  1. Set the oven to 180ºC and if using a metal tin, grease the tin, if using silicon, you don’t have to grease the mould.
  2. Cream the butter and sugar and add the vanilla. Beat for about 5 minutes. Add one egg at a time with a third of the sieved flour and baking powder until it has gone then add the milk and beat slowly until it is mixed in.
  3. Place half of the mixture in each side of the tin to about ¾ full and bake for 50 mins.  Times really depend on your own oven, so start to check the cake at 50 minutes, then every 10 minutes and do not remove from the oven until the cake is springy to the touch. This might take up to 1 hr 15 minutes.
  4. Remove from the oven and let it cool for 40 minutes before tipping out or removing the silicon .  If the cake has overflowed or has risen too high don’t worry, you can trim this with a bread knife or a cake leveller. It’s easier to do this while it is still in the tin.
  5. Leave the cake for at least 2 hours to cool before decorating.
  6. To make the icing, whisk the butter and icing sugar until it forms a crumb. Add the milk  and vanilla and whisk for 5 minutes until the icing is fluffy and light.  Take the base and spread a thick layer of buttercream to sandwich the top to the base. You can then decorate the cake in which ever way takes your fancy.

the cupcake in it's protective dog collar wrapping

Sunday Night Meatballs

On Sunday night, David, my housemate, and I went to the ‘farewell’ party for 3345, the bar that sits atop the extraordinarily famous Parr Street Studios in Liverpool.

3345 is/was owned by Tom and Carl who I am lucky to count amongst my friends and we also live on the same street which means the occasional blissful late night supper round their kitchen table with Tom on the music selection and Carl whipping up something wonderful. They’re very generous and kind people and they have decided after 10 years to move on to exciting new adventures. 3345 has that wonderful charm of feeling like your curled up in someone’s sitting room, someone very cool and creative, but cosy and full of friendly faces. Whatever it is that they move on to do, I’m certain it will be a great success and will be motivated by the things that formed the ethos of 3345, bonhomie, good hosting and spending time with fun and friendly people.

I had promised David meatballs for a couple of nights so we snuck off early for him to watch Being Human and for me to set about being a domestic goddess in the kitchen. I started by teaching David how to make this, in an effort to prove how easy it is to cook from scratch and how quick it can be, but he soon grew bored of my overuse of the word ’juncture’ and my impression of Delia, skipping about the kitchen and showing him how things should be done so he disappeared to watch television and I was left chained to the stove!

These meatballs, like many things I cook, are different every time. They could contain a multitude of different herbs and often contain sage and different flavourings. It’s one of those joyful recipes that mean you can use up a load of things that have been lurking about in the fridge. I made my own tomato sauce to serve them with but I cheated with the 3 minute fresh pasta, if you were to cook this on a week night, jarred sauce would be absolutely fine, in fact, I would applaud you.

Meatballs

Meatballs, Tomato Sauce and Linguine

meatballs:

  • a pack of good quality pork sausages (about 300g, 6 or 8)
  • a bunch of parsley
  • a slug of olive oil
  • 200g smoked bacon or pancetta
  • an inch of red chilli, finely chopped
  • the zest and juice of one lemon
  • a handful of breadcrumbs
  • an egg
  • a handful of parmesan
  • 2 spring onions, chopped
  • salt and pepper
  • a crushed garlic clove

tomato sauce

  • an onion
  • a celery stick
  • a crushed garlic clove
  • a tin of chopped tomatoes
  • a slug of sherry vinegar
  • a tbsp of brown sugar
  • salt and pepper
  • a handful of chopped parsley
  • 100 ml of veg stock
  • a slug of white wine

and some pasta

  1. In a large frying pan, saute the spring onion and pancetta in olive oil until the pancetta is crispy and bronzed. Remove from the heat and stir through the crushed garlic. The residual heat of the pan will cook the garlic without burning it.
  2. In a large bowl, remove the casings of the sausages and tip the sausagemeat into the bowl. Add the parsley, chilli, lemon zest and juice, grated parmesan and salt and pepper. Tip in the pancetta, spring onion and garlic.
  3. Add the breadcrumbs to the bowl and break in the egg. Bind the mixture together, the easiest but definitely not neatest way is with your hands, you can use a spoon but you’ll find it’s so much easier to bind the ingredients by hand. Take a deep breath and get stuck in.
  4. Once the mixture is well mixed, form meatballs by hand by taking a small chunk of mix and rolling to form a small ball. The size is up to you but for cooking, it’s easier to make sure that they’re a pretty uniform size. Once in ball form, roll in flour.
  5. Fry the floured meatballs in the same frying pan until golden on both sides, if they start to fall apart, don’t panic, just push them back together with the back of a spoon.
  6. When browned on all sides, place in an ovenproof dish and pop in an oven at about 180 while you make the sauce and cook the pasta.
  7. In the same saucepan, throw in the onion and celery and saute these until translucent. Add the handful of parsley and cook for another couple minutes.
  8. Pour in the wine and stock and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, this will mean all the lovely sugary, crispy residues of your meatballs will flavour the sauce and the slight remnants of flour will help thicken your sauce. Add the rest of the ingredients and cook for 10-15 minutes until reduced to a consistency that you like. I like tomato sauce to be quite thick.
  9. Towards the last couple of minutes, put your pasta on to cook.
  10. Remove the meatballs and serve them on top of the pasta and sauce with a good handful of parmesan and salt and pepper.

 

Iberico Ham Carving School @SaltHouseTapas

The other evening, we (Ant and I) were lucky enough to attend the first Brindisa Iberico Ham carving school at Salt House Tapas, which is probably my absolute favourite restaurant in Liverpool, well that and Puschka) hosted by the great staff at Salt House and by Mario Hiraldo Regalado, the Master Carver from Brindisa in London. Mario has been working for Brindisa for a couple of years but has been training for over 10 years in Iberico ham, he hails from the South West of Spain and there is nothing this man doesn’t know about spanish hams.

I love Serrano and Iberico ham but I didn’t know a huge amount about it. My uncle, Elias, who lives in Galicia cures his own and on our last trip to Spain, he emerged into the kitchen carrying a whole leg of ham from which he carved fine slices of perfect ham. I was hooked.

We sat down to a lovely table full of people keen to learn lots and try lots of ham! There were glasses of Cava and plates of those wonderful green bitter chillies, sugared beans, manchego and membrillo and olives. Ant and I were sitting next to a great couple who had actually married in Spain and spoke beautiful Spanish and we were very excited about our evening of learning more. We then had to sign a form in case we suffered extreme injury!

Mario began the evening by explaining the differences between Serrano and Iberico. Serrano is made from a white pig, the breed includes the Middle White which we use a lot of in this country, and Mario explained that this was why as a nation we prefer Serrano ham as it tastes closer to the pork that we’re used to.  It’s cured for a minimum of 18 months and fed cereal. This is the main difference with Iberico ham which is cured for a minimum of 3 years and fed on a diet of acorns, worms and the delicious things found by them rooting around the woods in Dehesa and Extramadura.

There is quite clear difference in flavour, the Serrano is milder and sweeter, while the Iberico is gutsy, almost chestnutty which makes sense when you see, and taste, the acorns they eat. They’re nothing like our small and bitter acorns but nutty and rather sweet. The Iberico ham was the clear winner for me, which makes sense as it’s also the most expensive and I have cruelly expensive tastes. We tasted the ham with a chilled sherry which Mario explained would create the perfect heat in our mouths to melt the ham fat and create an even more wonderful flavour. He wasn’t wrong.

At this point, we split into two groups, one to taste wines and one to try carving our own ham. Mario explained that we should open our ham by the carving the babilla and to remove the fat which can taste acrid and has been sitting open to the elements for at least 3 years. Mario advised us to hold the ham by the clip holding the hoof and to carve in thin slices from the punta (by the hip) to the hoof. The skill being ensuring the ham is carved flat with no waves or ruts. Mario also taught us to carve around the hip bone to ensure we got the most from the ham and how to carve the sweet meat from by the ankle. It was then our turn to carve. Ant volunteered first and he did an excellent job of carving, which he should as he’s a chef! He did however sustain a slight injury which meant it was my turn!

Ant carving prior to the injury!

The Serrano ham was easier to carve, the meat was softer and smoother which makes sense as it’s more of a domestic pig. The Iberico wasn’t so easy to carve, the slices came out thicker. Mario said I was an excellent carver and offered me a job, alas I think he was being complimentary! I have to say I was impressed with my own carving, I’d have given myself a job!

After carving our ham and Mario wrapping it up for us to take home, we swapped with the other group to try a selection of wine with the chaps who supply the wines to Salt House. They had selected two white wines and two red wines and I made notes so I could remember what we had tasted.

  1. Orballo, Albarino, 2010, Rias Baixas, N West Spain – a citrussy, buttery, white with a natural acidity, it made us think of oranges and we were told that this was because the grapes are grown in an Atlantic climate.
  2. Mas Macia, Xarello, 2010, nr Barcelona – this was peachy and creamy with much less acidity, the vanilla flavour was imparted by the barrels and was grown in a Mediterranean climate.
  3. Vega Piedra, Joven Rioja, 2009 – this was a light red, tasting of berries and vanilla. The tannin was soft and the flavours were of black and red fruits.
  4. Senorio de Sarria, Navarra Crianza, 2008 – this was a purple colour, with the flavour of cedar and a woody character, Navarra is cooler than Rioja.

A cooler climate means less alcohol, fewer legs on the inside of the glass and less sugar.

We also learned the differences between Crianza, 6 months in oak and a year in bottle, Reserva, 1 year oak and 1 year in bottle, and Gran Reserva, 1 year oak and 2 years in bottle.

It was such an interesting night and we felt that we learned lots about both ham and wines. Ant who is a reluctant red wine drinker found a wine he liked and Mario was such an excellent raconteur and speaker. We left with a goody bag containing our ham, some delicious almonds and olives, the recipe for our favourite croquettes and a voucher for our next trip to Salt House.

I would absolutely recommend the evening as a present or just for fun. They’re held in London but the next one in Liverpool is in May and I must admit, I’d go again. A wonderful night.

 

 

Malibu and Coconut Cupcakes and the Great Cupcake Debate

There is something in the world that means that cupcakes are looked down upon. For a while, they were fun and flirtatious and people would have swapped their grandmothers for some twirly and whirly confection or fought each other on the streets over the best buttercream. And now, they are as unfashionable as Juicy Couture tracksuits, although I do know some parts of Britain where those tracksuits reign supreme, and it makes me wonder what did the cupcake do wrong and why was it’s ascendence so brief.

I think this is in part due to the badness of cupcakes out their on cake shop shelves, all but very few cupcakes I’ve ever eaten, and that includes the most expensive out there, have been pretty bland, dry or miserable tasting. Then there’s the topping, the overexcitable swirl atop a cake is great if you like whipped icing or buttercream and if it’s brilliantly made but when it tastes like fluff and the butterflies made from sugar also taste of nothing, it’s not so fun. And this, I think, is the root cause of the public’s sudden shunning of cupcakes.

I, unlike the nation, am always slow on the uptake of what is ‘in’, for one reason, whatever is ‘in’ in London has yet to be invented in Liverpool, which isn’t at all saying Liverpool is backward, just London seems to streak ahead of us all in wild new trends like tea with bubbles in it (which actually looks quite cool). And so rather than liking cupcakes and now having no time for them, I used to dislike them intensely and having cracked what makes a great cupcake, I now like them very much. Not all of them, still not the dry ones or the ones with bad icing but good ones, bring them on!

And on this note, I also think some of the best cupcakes are the ones with the most simple looks but a good punchy flavour from the icing and so this is how this cupcake was born. Think of it as a kind of ‘Beach Barbie’ cupcake, one that wouldn’t look out of place sat next to a Playboy bunny or a real bunny or better yet, a Malteaster bunny (if you haven’t tried one, do!) This is a pretty simple recipe and isn’t my usual cupcake recipe but is a good quick one and so I’ve provided it for that reason. Also a freestanding mixer makes this the most horrendously simple thing in the world, if you don’t have one, an electric whisk will work brilliantly but you’ll just have to do more mixing. I’ve named my mixer after Daisy the Kitchen Maid in Downton Abbey, because I’m cool.

I would drink this with some kind of wicked and wild cocktail but a lemonade punch or a cup of lovely Earl Grey would work well too. I have an idea that these would be lovely for a hen party with gin and tonic macaroons and champagne cream scones.

 

cupcakes

 

Malibu and Coconut Cupcakes

for the cupcakes:

  • 120g plain flour
  • 140g caster sugar
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • a pinch of salt
  • 40g butter, softened
  • 100ml milk
  • 50ml coconut milk
  • 1 free-range egg

for the icing:

    • 175g butter, softened
    • 500g icing sugar.
    • 50ml doconut milk
    • a dash of Malibu
    • dessicated coconut to decorate

First, my golden rules of cupcakes, the butter must be soft, leave out of the fridge well in advance, the bowl should be large so you’re not struggling to stir your mix, the butter and sugar must be creamed and I’ve never heard of a cupcake that has gone wrong because it’s been creamed for too long, the whiter and fluffier, the better.

  1. Preheat the oven to 180C and line a 12-hole muffin tin with paper cases, I use muffin cases because you get a bigger cupcake.
  2. Place the butter and sugar in a bowl or freestanding mixer and cream until very white and fluffy, add the rest of the dry cupcake ingredients into the bowl and mix well.
  3. Stir the egg, coconut milk and milk together and add to the mixer. Allow this to mix at a medium speed for about 2 minutes or until well combined.
  4. Spoon the mixture into your muffin cases and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until risen and goldeny brown. Remove from the oven and leave to one side to cool for 10 minutes.
  5. While they are cooling, make your icing by adding the icing and sugar in the mixer or a bowl and beating until well combined. When combined, pour in the coconut milk and allow the whisk or mixer to whip this for up to 5 minutes. The longer whipped, the fluffier the icing.
  6. At the very last minute, add the Malibu and allow it to combine.
  7. Spoon the icing on top of the cooled cupcakes and spread.
  8. While still wet, roll the tops of the cupcakes in dessicated coconut.

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